Phan Thiet Fish Sauce Village and the Dream of Heritage.

FFor more than three centuries of development, the traditional fish sauce-making craft in Phan Thiet (Lam Dong) has not only sustained generations of coastal residents but also crystallized into a distinctive cultural identity of the region. Currently, local authorities are compiling a dossier to propose the recognition of “Phan Thiet Traditional Fish Sauce Craft” as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, opening new prospects for preserving and promoting the value of this traditional craft village.

In the early days of the year, many traditional fish sauce production facilities in Phu Hai and Phu Thuy wards have continued to operate steadily. Bathed in sunlight and salt-laden breezes, hundreds of earthen jars and wooden barrels are arranged in long rows, containing fish and salt undergoing a fermentation process that lasts for many months.

Mr. Huynh Thien Huan, who owns a fish sauce production facility in Phu Thuy Ward, is the third generation of his family to uphold the traditional craft of making fish sauce. Passing down family secrets from his father, Mr. Huan continues to use the long standing method of fermentation in clay jars—a technique well-known in the craft village for many years.

Mr. Huan said producing a high-quality batch of fish sauce requires careful attention from the very first stage, from selecting the fish and mixing it with salt to closely managing the fermentation process. Fresh anchovies are mixed with salt according to a traditional family formula, stirred thoroughly, and then transferred into large containers. The mixture is covered with bamboo grids, layered with salt, secured with another grid, and weighted down with stones to keep it tightly compressed.

The mixture ferments in large jars under the sun, with natural heat helping speed up the aging process. After 8 to 18 months, the fish sauce develops a color ranging from straw yellow to deep amber and gives off its distinctive savory aroma. This careful process yields "nuoc mam nhi," the first-press fish sauce, followed by "nuoc mam ngang," a second extraction drawn through further brining.

“Making fish sauce is a labor-intensive process. It requires patience for many months, sometimes even a full year, before the product reaches the desired quality. But it is the aroma of the first drops of nuoc mam nhi that has kept me devoted to my family’s craft,” Mr. Huan said.

According to historical records, the craft of making fish sauce in Phan Thiet emerged in the late 17th century. Initially, fish sauce was produced primarily for household consumption. Due to the abundance of fish, high protein levels, and favorable climatic conditions, this practice gradually evolved into a traditional craft village.

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, several large-scale production establishments, locally known as “ham ho,” had emerged. Merchant sailing vessels once crowded the Ca Ty and Phu Hai rivers to purchase fish sauce and transport it to markets across southern Vietnam.

Although there have been numerous changes throughout the years, the traditional craft of fish sauce production in Phan Thiet has been preserved by various businesses and families. This product is not only enjoyed locally but is also exported to foreign markets.

According to local producers, the main ingredients used to make fish sauce are anchovies, mackerel, and coarse sea salt. Fish caught between the fourth and ninth lunar months are generally considered the best, as their higher fat content contributes to a higher protein content in the finished product.