The spirit of the sea lives on in Ba Trao rowing

The cultural heart of the Whale Worship Festival

Ba Trao rowing is a traditional folk performance deeply rooted in the spiritual and cultural life of coastal communities from Quang Tri to Lam Dong. It is performed in rituals honouring Nam Hai, the sea deity associated with the traditional worship of whales.

As settlers from the Ngu Quang region moved south to establish communities in what is now the southeastern part of Lam Dong Province, they brought Ba Trao rowing with them as a source of spiritual support. Over generations, the tradition has helped shape and preserve the cultural identity of local fishing communities.

During the main-season Whale Worship Festival in Phan Thiet's fishing villages, the ceremonial procession travels about two nautical miles offshore before coming to a stop. The chief celebrant then lights incense and offers prayers, inviting Nam Hai and other sea deities to attend the ceremony.

The Ba Trao troupe then performs a ritual to welcome and escort Ong Sanh. In the traditional cheo dam formation, the rowers stand in two lines along either side of the boat, with three lead performers positioned in the centre.

Moving in unison, the performers bend and sway while sweeping their oars through the air to imitate rowing. At the same time, they sing verses from the traditional Ba Trao repertoire, following the prescribed sequence of the ritual performance.

Following the ceremony at sea, the Ba Trao troupe joins a procession of around 300 people through central Phan Thiet before returning to Van Thuy Tu for the remaining rituals.

Along the procession route, performers vividly recreate the work of fishermen and their journeys across rough seas through folk songs, dances and distinctive Ba Trao rowing formations. Each movement reflects not only the hardships of life at sea but also the solidarity and determination of fishing communities and their hopes for a safe return from every voyage.

Rhythms of hope upon the sea

Pham Tu, Deputy Head of Van Thuy Tu in Phan Thiet Ward, said fishermen face the dangers of unpredictable weather and rough seas in their daily work. As a result, they have long placed deep faith in Ca Ong (the Whale God), a belief strengthened by stories of whales guiding fishing boats safely to shore during storms and high waves.

Cultural researcher Nguyen Xuan Ly, former Director of the Binh Thuan Provincial Museum, described Ba Trao rowing in his writings as "the soul of the Whale Worship Festival."

According to Ly, the performance embodies the simple and sincere hopes of fishing communities and their deep reverence for the Whale God. It also reflects the distinctive character of their traditional livelihood while preserving broader Vietnamese cultural identity through local customs, village traditions, rituals and community conventions.

He noted that without this belief, the fishing community temples dedicated to whale worship would lose an important part of their traditional cultural identity.

For local fishermen, being part of a Ba Trao rowing troupe is considered both an honour and a blessing. Even after spending long periods fishing at sea, they make time to return whenever their fishing community holds its traditional ceremonies, joining the troupe to perform rituals in honour of Nam Hai, the Whale God.

Phan Van Sen, a member of the Ba Trao troupe, said: "I am proud to perform at the Whale Worship Festival. It is not only a traditional cultural activity but also a way for us to preserve and pass on the values handed down by our ancestors."

Amid the lively beat of ceremonial drums and the powerful rhythm of the oars, each Ba Trao chant carries renewed faith and encouragement for fishermen to continue their lives at sea and preserve their traditional livelihoods. At the same time, the tradition keeps Phan Thiet's maritime cultural identity alive for present and future generations.