Xa Lam Cake from the land of Duong – Sweet flavours of Tet

A traditional delicacy

When tracing the origins of the cake, the village elders cannot recall exactly when it first appeared or who introduced it to the Duong region. They only know that every spring, almost every household makes Xa Lam cake, a traditional treat that has been passed down for decades.

Mrs. Vo Thi Lien, a long-time Xa Lam vendor at Chi Cong Market, shared: “In the past, only during the twelfth lunar month would the coastal neighbourhood light their stoves to make Xa Lam cake for Tet. Children had to wait until Tet to enjoy it. In recent years, people often buy Xa Lam on full-moon days and festivals to offer to their ancestors, so the cake is now sold year-round. It may look simple and rustic, but for those living far from home, the mere sight of Xa Lam evokes an overwhelming sense of nostalgia.”

Most women in the Duong region know how to make the cake, but only a little more than ten households still produce it well enough for sale. I visited the home of Mrs. Nguyen Kieu Thanh (Ha Thuy 1 Hamlet) just as she was preparing a batch for customers. Having learned the craft from her mother, she gradually adjusted the ingredients so the cake would be mildly sweet, chewy, fragrant, and not too hard.

Although she has only been in the trade for five or six years, Mrs. Thanh already has a steady group of loyal customers. As Tet approaches, her kitchen is constantly lit with fire. From the start of the alley, the crackling sounds of popped rice can be heard, while the aroma of ginger, caramelised sugar, and roasted peanuts spreads through the neighbourhood, carrying the spirit of Tet to the small fishing village.

According to Mrs. Thanh, the ingredients for Xa Lam cake are quite simple: popped rice, sugar, ginger, candied pineapple, banana oil, vanilla, and crushed roasted peanuts. Each batch yields about 100 cakes. Once all ingredients are prepared, sugar syrup is simmered over low heat until thickened, then ginger, pineapple, and peanuts are added and stirred evenly, followed by the popped rice.
“This step requires quick hands so the mixture doesn’t clump, and the cake turns out smooth, chewy, and aromatic. When it becomes thick and fragrant, banana oil is added, then the mixture is poured onto trays while still warm, pressed thin, coated with fine popped rice, and left to dry,” she explained while working.

Sweet flavours of Tet

Once dried, the cake is cut into small square pieces about two finger-lengths wide, rolled evenly in popped rice powder on all sides, then decorated with raisins or sesame seeds and wrapped in colourful floral paper. According to residents, only floral paper can preserve the true soul of Xa Lam cake. The small, brightly wrapped cakes have become a familiar image for decades, symbolising the vibrant spring of this coastal village.

Not far away, the family of Mrs. Do Thi Tam (Ha Thuy 2 Hamlet, Phan Ri Cua Commune) is also busy making Xa Lam cake. Not only adults but also children eagerly help their parents and relatives during the days leading up to Tet. From time to time, the children secretly sneak a leftover piece, biting into the soft, chewy cake with its spicy ginger aroma, a taste deeply infused with the Tet spirit of this sun- and wind-swept land. These simple moments will surely become unforgettable childhood memories for the children of the fishing village.

Having been involved in making Xa Lam cake and distributing it to many provinces and cities for nearly 20 years, Mrs. Tam is now passing the craft on to her children and grandchildren. She shared that each year she usually makes over 100 kilograms of popped rice, though orders have been fewer this year. According to her, Xa Lam cake has become an integral part of life in the Duong region; during Tet, almost every household places a plate of colourful Xa Lam cakes on their ancestral altar.

Mrs. Tam added that making good Xa Lam cake requires patience. From roasting peanuts and caramelising sugar to seasoning, every step must be done precisely, relying on experience and the refined senses of the coastal women. Today, busy life offers countless ready-made Tet treats, easily purchased from any grocery store in elegant boxes. Yet, the people of the land of Duong continue to preserve the tradition of making Xa Lam cake whenever spring returns.